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RECOGNIZED BEING: There is nothing to understand And that passes the intruder Who will be not able to await Because I am only to hear them silences and when I tremble Me, I am your different If we were not from here We would be the infinite one [Tu es mon autre - Lara Fabian]  The recognized being wears thigh boots  of Gabrielle Lys and a dress wallet out of wool with short sleeves and bordered in bottom by silk muslin of Saris. Gabrielle Lys November 13th, 2007.
RECOGNIZED BEING:
"There is nothing to understand
And that passes the intruder
Who will be not able to await
Because I am only to hear them
silences and when I tremble
Me, I am your different
If we were not from here
We would be the infinite one"
[Tu es mon autre - Lara Fabian]

The recognized being wears thigh boots of Gabrielle Lys and a dress wallet out of wool with short sleeves and bordered in bottom by silk muslin of Saris. Gabrielle Lys
November 13th, 2007.


Man in autumn: long skirt in velvet color bordeaux, brown boots out of leather, wool sweater color green hunter, waistcoat teases color dark bordeaux. Gabrielle Lys 2005.
Man in autumn: long skirt in velvet color bordeaux, brown boots out of leather, wool sweater color green hunter, waistcoat teases color dark bordeaux. Gabrielle Lys 2005.

The coat bar: Militant opposed to the death penalty in the United States. The coat bar: symbol of the rebellion. Gabrielle Lys. Special Cubism Collection. May 2007.
The coat "bar":
Militant opposed to the death penalty in the United States. The coat "bar": symbol of the rebellion.
Gabrielle Lys. Special Cubism Collection. May 2007.


The night bird: the night come, he wanders in the bars of the city. White shirt with collar out of V, cotton anthracite skirt, boots of rough riding and black raincoat out of  leather. Gabrielle Lys 2005.
The night bird: the night come, he wanders in the bars of the city. White shirt with collar out of V, cotton anthracite skirt, boots of rough riding and black raincoat out of leather. Gabrielle Lys 2005.


The garçonnes or the first women in trousers.

Introduction

dot  Less than one hundred years before the movement of the men out of Skirts, there were the women in trousers.... This article pays homage to these women pionnières who had courage to face the homophobie, with the mockeries, with the disapproval of the society during the decade 1920-1930 while carrying the trousers. By adopting the dress of the men, they were the precursors of the movement of emancipation and liberalization of the women.

Poses calculated or urgent seized by the photographer ? the garonne with the car.
Poses calculated or urgent seized by the photographer ?
"the garonne with the car".

La garçonne.
dot  Symbol of the Mad years, the garçonne, with her cut hair, her shortened dresses, her tubular look is a figure of androgyne mode which hesitates between masculine and invention of a new femininity. She incarne, in ambiguous manner, the emancipation of the women. The adversaries with this emancipation did not fail to compare the garçonnes to the lesbians, thus using the homophobie against the women. Thus, since 1889, we estimate that we almost always can suspect a homosexuality among women who carry the short hair or which gets dressed like men or who practise the sports of the men. The sign of the sex by clothing is indeed at that time a fundamental cultural feature. It assigns each sex in its place in all the manifestations of the social life. However, in this century marked by the male domination, to adopt the dress of the men is a gesture of stamping. Women face to the sarcastic remarks become models for the women witch like freedom: Rosa Happiness, George Sand, exploring Jane Dieulafoy or the writter Rachilde wear the male dress.

Short cut and squared said precisely to the garonne Louise Brooks.
Short cut and squared said precisely "to the garonne"
Louise Brooks.

dot  In 1920, the short cut and squared said precisely "to the garçonne" holds the top of the paving stone while the movie inaugurates the legendary career of star like Louise Brooks. The opponents of the emancipation of the women make run the rumour that the short cuts cause baldnesses, or, on the contrary, activate the pilosity of the face... But a new femininity is invented : The released neck and the nape of the neck emphasize outer earrings. On the stripped arms scintillate of many rigid bracelets, tightened "with the slave" while the movement of the body is underlined by many jewels imagination and pins...

New femininity:  the released nape of the neck emphasizes large collars. Louise Brooks
New femininity: the released nape of the neck emphasizes large collars.
Louise Brooks

The arrival of the trousers

dot  The appearance of the trousers In 1924, the Skirts are "short": on average to 26 cm of the ground. In 1925, they are to 30 or 35 cm of the ground. In 1926, they are to 40 cm then lengthen gradually until 1930 when they will be stabilized to 30 or 32 cm of the ground. But with the garçonne, male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom. It is not a question of vestimentary eccentricity but falls under a progress of feminism. The equality of the sexes seems initially like a negation of femininity and a will to imitate the men. The trousers, symbol of virility appears at the end of the Twenties in female wardrobe even they are already used since 1920 for horsemanship, hunting or golf. They also exist in the form of silk pyjamas to replace the housecoat since 1924. With the variation of the changes, the countryside will remain a long time faithful to its vestimentary traditions and its regional costumes. Thus, a long time, some priests will refuse the communion with the girls in trousers. The public school will hardly be shown more tolerant by prohibiting the trousers until the end of the Sixties, except during the winter rigours, provided that it is carried under the Skirt. In 1930, the women's right to get dressed as a man is even discussed in front of the courts. Thus, Violette Morris, catch of the sporting female Federation of France carries felt sorry for because its federation withdrew her licence because of her behaviour considered to be too male. To 37 years, she increases very short cut hair, the trousers and jacket with tie. she will be even marked by the rumour to have to remove her too prominent chest to drive its car... The court will declare that "to carry trousers not allowed for women, the sporting female federation of France had perfectly the right to prohibit it"...

The actress Charlotte Andler in 1929. Jacket, trousers, shirt, bow tie, gloves. Male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom.
The actress Charlotte Andler in 1929.
Jacket, trousers, shirt, bow tie, gloves.
Male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom.

dot  Nevertheless, these courageous women will triumph over the aesthetic divergences, morals and policies to enter manners and to thus open the way of the modern woman such as we know it today.
Gabrielle Lys
Bibliography:
"Les Garçonnes. Modes et fantasmes des années folles".
Christine Bard, Paris, Flammarion, 1998.


Short cut and squared said precisely to the garonne Louise Brooks.
Short cut and squared said precisely "to the garonne"
Louise Brooks.


The site is a success thanks to you all. Thank you for your expressions of sympathy in the golden book and ideological support of members. Thank you also with those which write personal messages to me. They suit me right to the heart and push me to advance always further.
Gabrielle Lys

STORM OF COLORS: Storm of colors in Galliano style...  Dress out of silk with printed and make-up multi colors. Gabrielle Lys. October 18, 2008.
STORM OF COLORS:
Storm of colors in Galliano style...

Dress out of silk with printed and make-up multi colors.
Gabrielle Lys. October 18, 2008.


POWERFUL ANDROGYNE: Dared superposition of a dress in fabric on an armour hauls. This combinaison expresses the power of the androgyne on the bipolar identity. Gabrielle Lys. July 11, 2008.
POWERFUL ANDROGYNE:
Dared superposition of a dress in fabric on an armour hauls. This combinaison expresses the power of the androgyne on the bipolar identity.
Gabrielle Lys. July 11, 2008.


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Samuelf Morales - Medellin - Colombia - - added 04/05/2019.
El pantalón fue utilizado para DISCRIMINAR, abusar y humillar a la mujer.
Las FALDAS; y los VESTIDOS CON FALDA, para los varones; SON UNA GRAN NECESIDAD; por salud, por respeto y por comodidad.
Por tradición y desde siempre los hombres se habían vestido con faldas, solo hace 500 años que nos obligaron a usar el horroroso e incomodo pantalón.
Ademas con el uso del pantalón el hombre ha terminado orinando de pie lo cual es totalmente antinatural. Las Faldas y los vestidos con faldas para los hombres son suprema-mente SALUDABLES, CÓMODOS Y CONFORTABLES.
Por salud y comodidad mejor usar FALDAS O VESTIDOS CON FALDA PARA HOMBRE .
Hay una GRAN NECESIDAD POR ATENDER entre la población masculina; y esta muy relacionada con la SALUD; y la calidad de vida de los varones;
Las faldas para los varones son una gran NECESIDAD; por salud, por respeto y por comodidad.

El pantalón es la prenda menos adecuada para un hombre; el calzoncillo bóxer, hace las veces de férula en los genitales, (propiciando mal funcionamiento, y discapacidades); el calzoncillo bóxer mantiene los genitales inmovilizados ; magullados y machacados; la costura central del pantalón maltrata, magulla e incomoda todo el tiempo los genitales; la correa o cinturón hace las veces de torniquete, y obliga al corazón a bombear la sangre con mayor esfuerzo, (para vencer la contracción que hace el torniquete), y por mala irrigacion sanguínea afecta: el aparato digestivo, el sistema urinario, el aparato reproductor. Ademas con el uso del pantalón el hombre ha terminado orinando de pie lo cual es totalmente antinatural. Las Faldas y los vestidos con faldas para los hombres son suprema-mente SALUDABLES, CÓMODOS Y CONFORTABLES. El pantalón, el calzoncillo ajustado, la costura central del pantalón, y la correa o cinturón, están promoviendo las enfermedades modernas de los hombres: IMPOTENCIA, ESTERILIDAD, PROBLEMAS DE LA PRÓSTATA Y POSIBLEMENTE CÁNCER DEL TESTÍCULO.
Ninguna parte del cuerpo del varón se magulla, ni se machaca; ni se maltrata tanto como los genitales.

Las faldas y vestidos con falda para los hombres no deben ir con volantes, boleros, encajes, moñitos; y/o adornos; o estampados típicamente femeninos; pero si se pueden elaborar unas muy buenas faldas y vestidos con falda para los hombres; y que se diferencien de las prendas femeninas.


El tiro; ( que es la costura que une las piernas; tira, por delante; o por detrás; y por eso tiene que sacarlo de entre las nalgas); el horroroso e incómodo pantalón; maltrata; magulla; machaca; lacera, e incomoda todo el tiempo los genitales. Las personas se acostumbran a vivir con la incomodidad; como cuando un zapato nuevo les hace salir callos, o ampollas en los pies.
Por Anatomía el pantalón sería más afín para la mujer, que para los hombres; lo más adecuado; SALUDABLE; DECENTE; ERGONÓMICO; PRACTICO; y FUNCIONAL, para vestirse un hombre es una FALDA al estilo escocés; o UN VESTIDO CON FALDAS.
La falda circular y semicircular para hombre; es lo mas practico y fácil de elaborar; pues no lleva cierre o cremallera en la pretina


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