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THE DEPARTURE: One leaves towards our other star, Before withdrawing oneself, one will forget those which do not understand. If all could be true. Nothing any more will arrive to us. Nothing any more will prevent us...  [Crash me - Indochine]  To join his star, he carries a distort fur coat on a black wool dress. Gabrielle Lys November 26th, 2007.
THE DEPARTURE:
"One leaves towards
our other star,
Before withdrawing oneself,
one will forget those
which do not understand.
If all could be true.
Nothing any more
will arrive to us.
Nothing any more
will prevent us... "
[Crash me - Indochine]

To join his star, he carries a distort fur coat on a black wool dress.
Gabrielle Lys
November 26th, 2007.


THE CAT-MAN: Shaman honouring the cult of Bast. Under his mask with head of cat symbol of the femininity, the defender of the home and the maternity, he detains the magic power which stimulates the love and the carnal energy. Nude, he wears a simple skirt rolls on a more becoming skirt and long leather boots. Gabrielle Lys December 22th, 2007.
THE CAT-MAN:
Shaman honouring the cult of Bast. Under his mask with head of cat symbol of the femininity, the defender of the home and the maternity, he detains the magic power which stimulates the love and the carnal energy. Nude, he wears a simple skirt rolls on a more becoming skirt and long leather boots.
Gabrielle Lys
December 22th, 2007.


BEAUTIFUL PAST: High wrinkled skirt with great width and inspired of the skirts of the end of the 18th century. Matched make-up. Gabrielle Lys. April 8th 2008.
BEAUTIFUL PAST:
High wrinkled skirt with great width and inspired of the skirts of the end of the 18th century. Matched make-up.
Gabrielle Lys. April 8th 2008.



The garçonnes or the first women in trousers.

Introduction

dot  Less than one hundred years before the movement of the men out of Skirts, there were the women in trousers.... This article pays homage to these women pionnières who had courage to face the homophobie, with the mockeries, with the disapproval of the society during the decade 1920-1930 while carrying the trousers. By adopting the dress of the men, they were the precursors of the movement of emancipation and liberalization of the women.

Poses calculated or urgent seized by the photographer ? the garonne with the car.
Poses calculated or urgent seized by the photographer ?
"the garonne with the car".

La garçonne.
dot  Symbol of the Mad years, the garçonne, with her cut hair, her shortened dresses, her tubular look is a figure of androgyne mode which hesitates between masculine and invention of a new femininity. She incarne, in ambiguous manner, the emancipation of the women. The adversaries with this emancipation did not fail to compare the garçonnes to the lesbians, thus using the homophobie against the women. Thus, since 1889, we estimate that we almost always can suspect a homosexuality among women who carry the short hair or which gets dressed like men or who practise the sports of the men. The sign of the sex by clothing is indeed at that time a fundamental cultural feature. It assigns each sex in its place in all the manifestations of the social life. However, in this century marked by the male domination, to adopt the dress of the men is a gesture of stamping. Women face to the sarcastic remarks become models for the women witch like freedom: Rosa Happiness, George Sand, exploring Jane Dieulafoy or the writter Rachilde wear the male dress.

Short cut and squared said precisely to the garonne Louise Brooks.
Short cut and squared said precisely "to the garonne"
Louise Brooks.

dot  In 1920, the short cut and squared said precisely "to the garçonne" holds the top of the paving stone while the movie inaugurates the legendary career of star like Louise Brooks. The opponents of the emancipation of the women make run the rumour that the short cuts cause baldnesses, or, on the contrary, activate the pilosity of the face... But a new femininity is invented : The released neck and the nape of the neck emphasize outer earrings. On the stripped arms scintillate of many rigid bracelets, tightened "with the slave" while the movement of the body is underlined by many jewels imagination and pins...

New femininity:  the released nape of the neck emphasizes large collars. Louise Brooks
New femininity: the released nape of the neck emphasizes large collars.
Louise Brooks

The arrival of the trousers

dot  The appearance of the trousers In 1924, the Skirts are "short": on average to 26 cm of the ground. In 1925, they are to 30 or 35 cm of the ground. In 1926, they are to 40 cm then lengthen gradually until 1930 when they will be stabilized to 30 or 32 cm of the ground. But with the garçonne, male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom. It is not a question of vestimentary eccentricity but falls under a progress of feminism. The equality of the sexes seems initially like a negation of femininity and a will to imitate the men. The trousers, symbol of virility appears at the end of the Twenties in female wardrobe even they are already used since 1920 for horsemanship, hunting or golf. They also exist in the form of silk pyjamas to replace the housecoat since 1924. With the variation of the changes, the countryside will remain a long time faithful to its vestimentary traditions and its regional costumes. Thus, a long time, some priests will refuse the communion with the girls in trousers. The public school will hardly be shown more tolerant by prohibiting the trousers until the end of the Sixties, except during the winter rigours, provided that it is carried under the Skirt. In 1930, the women's right to get dressed as a man is even discussed in front of the courts. Thus, Violette Morris, catch of the sporting female Federation of France carries felt sorry for because its federation withdrew her licence because of her behaviour considered to be too male. To 37 years, she increases very short cut hair, the trousers and jacket with tie. she will be even marked by the rumour to have to remove her too prominent chest to drive its car... The court will declare that "to carry trousers not allowed for women, the sporting female federation of France had perfectly the right to prohibit it"...

The actress Charlotte Andler in 1929. Jacket, trousers, shirt, bow tie, gloves. Male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom.
The actress Charlotte Andler in 1929.
Jacket, trousers, shirt, bow tie, gloves.
Male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom.

dot  Nevertheless, these courageous women will triumph over the aesthetic divergences, morals and policies to enter manners and to thus open the way of the modern woman such as we know it today.
Gabrielle Lys
Bibliography:
"Les Garçonnes. Modes et fantasmes des années folles".
Christine Bard, Paris, Flammarion, 1998.


Short cut and squared said precisely to the garonne Louise Brooks.
Short cut and squared said precisely "to the garonne"
Louise Brooks.


The site is a success thanks to you all. Thank you for your expressions of sympathy in the golden book and ideological support of members. Thank you also with those which write personal messages to me. They suit me right to the heart and push me to advance always further.
Gabrielle Lys

ANGELIC... He wears high heels long time ago before Rick Owens. Leaned on a bar of the halles Saint Gery popular place of Brussels, he flaunts himself with his angelic face... With his ruffled skirt in the Mana romantic style, he remains a hunter which is waiting his hour... Gabrielle Lys. September 2007.
ANGELIC...
He wears high heels long time ago before Rick Owens. Leaned on a bar of the "halles Saint Gery" popular place of Brussels, he flaunts himself with his angelic face... With his ruffled skirt in the "Mana romantic" style, he remains a hunter which is waiting his hour...
Gabrielle Lys. September 2007.


THE KISS OF THE LIMBS: Each night, in his sleep, these silhouettes emerge from the bottom of the limbs. Her, him, a kiss... The skirt for man, a story of redemption... Gabrielle Lys. October 2007.
THE KISS OF THE LIMBS:
Each night, in his sleep, these silhouettes emerge from the bottom of the limbs. Her, him, a kiss... The skirt for man, a story of redemption...
Gabrielle Lys. October 2007.


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Last member
14/12/2019 - 10h21
Beatrix elizabeth Hyden
- Deloraine - Tas - Tas
Androgynous in mind. Male in nature. Female in appearance. What else... Mind the step!
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Last member
13/01/2021 - 18h19
Jean-françois Blanchard
- Sauvelade - France -
J'ai toujours évolué dans un univers de travail exclusivement masculin : Le BTP.
En dehors de mon travail de directeur, j'ai toujours aimé porter des shorts en été, plutôt courts, et j'aime les vêtements plutôt androgyne ; en l'occurrence, j'aime beaucoup les vêtements féminins et autres jupes et robes de ces dames. Je peux dire qu'elles m'ont toujours donné l'envie de pouvoir les porter à mon tour. Elles sont pour moi source émancipation masculine !
J'ai une sensibilité plutôt féminine, j'aime autant le Rock que la poésie et la littérature...l'aventure, les rencontres, la photo, les gens !
J'ai aussi une tendance à contrecarrer toute discipline imposée, révolutionnaire depuis toujours contre les inégalités et les codes. Juste le fait que ce vêtement invite à la liberté m'impose d'y réfléchir et de m'inscrire dans un style qui réforme les choses convenues. J'aime que ma façon d'être et mon habillement suscite curiosité et quelque fois provocation !
Je découvre aujourd'hui - par plusieurs articles de presse de couturiers de la jupe, stylistes, et puis par votre blog et ...je vois que les quelques derniers posts un peu provoc sur facebook suscitent les réactions : Ah le foutu regard des autres !
Par contre, tout ce que je découvre - enfin - sur cet univers laissé en jachère depuis la Révolution Française n'est pas vraiment dans un style novateur : Tartans et kilts écossais, tenues "celtiques", etc, ou alors le noir "punk".
j'ai vraiment l'impression (mais je n'ai encore pas franchi le premier pas !) que si ce vêtement sortait de ces caricatures vieillottes (je n'ai pas dit moches !) alors le vieux fantômes du déguisement et du travestissement tiendrait encore longtemps la barre haute aux idées reçues.
J'ai dit en début d'année que je tenterai l'expérience et je le ferai...mais pas n'importe comment. Je prendrai soin de ne pas choquer, en tous cas j'essaierai. J'ai vraiment envie que l'expérience devienne une réalité "vivable" au quotidien. Mon nouveau travail (gérant d'un bar qui se voudrait le plus possible alternatif) va forcément m'aider dans ma démarche.
En tous cas, je suis content de vous avoir découvert...

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