"Our deepest fear is not that we are inadequate. Our deepest feais that we are powerful beyond measure. It is our light, not our darkness, that most frightens us. We ask ourselves, who am I to be brilliant, gorgeous, talented and fabulous ? Actually, who are you not to be ? You are a child of God. Your playing small doesn’t serve the world. There’s nothing enlightened about shrinking so that other people won’t feel insecure around you. We are all meant to shine, as children do. We are born to make manifest the glory of God that is within us. It’s not just in some of us, it’s in everyone. And as we let our own light shine, we unconsciously give other people permission to do the same. As we are liberated from our own fear, our presence automatically liberates others."
[Inauguration Speech of Nelson Mandela, 1994. The sentence “As we are liberated from our own fear, our presence automatically liberates others.” is from Marianne Williamson.]

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STORM OF COLORS: Storm of colors in Galliano style...  Dress out of silk with printed and make-up multi colors. Gabrielle. October 18, 2008.
STORM OF COLORS:
Storm of colors in Galliano style...

Dress out of silk with printed and make-up multi colors.
Gabrielle. October 18, 2008.


PERFECT LOOK : Bodysuit lace, boots of Archangel and leather coat. Gabrielle. August 29, 2010.
PERFECT LOOK :
Bodysuit lace, boots of Archangel and leather coat.
Gabrielle. August 29, 2010.


WHERE IS MY MIND: "With your feet in the air. And your head on the ground. Your head will collapse." [Where is my mind - Placebo]  Black leggings and Champagne. Gabrielle. May 15th, 2009.
WHERE IS MY MIND:
"With your feet in the air.
And your head on the ground.
Your head will collapse."
[Where is my mind - Placebo]

Black leggings and Champagne.
Gabrielle. May 15th, 2009.


THE GANGSTER: With his Borsalino, one could have believed in Al Capone but he wears a skirt in silk muslin on boots out of leather. We are in New York, Winter 2007. The shouldered jacket is in black woollen article. Gabrielle October 2007.
THE GANGSTER:
With his Borsalino, one could have believed in Al Capone but he wears a skirt in silk muslin on boots out of leather. We are in New York, Winter 2007. The shouldered jacket is in black woollen article.
Gabrielle October 2007.



The garçonnes or the first women in trousers.

Introduction

dot  Less than one hundred years before the movement of the men out of Skirts, there were the women in trousers.... This article pays homage to these women pionnières who had courage to face the homophobie, with the mockeries, with the disapproval of the society during the decade 1920-1930 while carrying the trousers. By adopting the dress of the men, they were the precursors of the movement of emancipation and liberalization of the women.

Poses calculated or urgent seized by the photographer ? "the garçonne with the car".
Poses calculated or urgent seized by the photographer ?
"the garçonne with the car".

La garçonne.
dot  Symbol of the Mad years, the garçonne, with her cut hair, her shortened dresses, her tubular look is a figure of androgyne mode which hesitates between masculine and invention of a new femininity. She incarne, in ambiguous manner, the emancipation of the women. The adversaries with this emancipation did not fail to compare the garçonnes to the lesbians, thus using the homophobie against the women. Thus, since 1889, we estimate that we almost always can suspect a homosexuality among women who carry the short hair or which gets dressed like men or who practise the sports of the men. The sign of the sex by clothing is indeed at that time a fundamental cultural feature. It assigns each sex in its place in all the manifestations of the social life. However, in this century marked by the male domination, to adopt the dress of the men is a gesture of stamping. Women face to the sarcastic remarks become models for the women witch like freedom: Rosa Happiness, George Sand, exploring Jane Dieulafoy or the writter Rachilde wear the male dress.

Short cut and squared said precisely "to the garçonne" Louise Brooks.
Short cut and squared said precisely "to the garçonne"
Louise Brooks.

dot  In 1920, the short cut and squared said precisely "to the garçonne" holds the top of the paving stone while the movie inaugurates the legendary career of star like Louise Brooks. The opponents of the emancipation of the women make run the rumour that the short cuts cause baldnesses, or, on the contrary, activate the pilosity of the face... But a new femininity is invented : The released neck and the nape of the neck emphasize outer earrings. On the stripped arms scintillate of many rigid bracelets, tightened "with the slave" while the movement of the body is underlined by many jewels imagination and pins...

New femininity:  the released nape of the neck emphasizes large collars. Louise Brooks
New femininity: the released nape of the neck emphasizes large collars.
Louise Brooks

The arrival of the trousers

dot  The appearance of the trousers In 1924, the Skirts are "short": on average to 26 cm of the ground. In 1925, they are to 30 or 35 cm of the ground. In 1926, they are to 40 cm then lengthen gradually until 1930 when they will be stabilized to 30 or 32 cm of the ground. But with the garçonne, male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom. It is not a question of vestimentary eccentricity but falls under a progress of feminism. The equality of the sexes seems initially like a negation of femininity and a will to imitate the men. The trousers, symbol of virility appears at the end of the Twenties in female wardrobe even they are already used since 1920 for horsemanship, hunting or golf. They also exist in the form of silk pyjamas to replace the housecoat since 1924. With the variation of the changes, the countryside will remain a long time faithful to its vestimentary traditions and its regional costumes. Thus, a long time, some priests will refuse the communion with the girls in trousers. The public school will hardly be shown more tolerant by prohibiting the trousers until the end of the Sixties, except during the winter rigours, provided that it is carried under the Skirt. In 1930, the women's right to get dressed as a man is even discussed in front of the courts. Thus, Violette Morris, catch of the sporting female Federation of France carries felt sorry for because its federation withdrew her licence because of her behaviour considered to be too male. To 37 years, she increases very short cut hair, the trousers and jacket with tie. she will be even marked by the rumour to have to remove her too prominent chest to drive its car... The court will declare that "to carry trousers not allowed for women, the sporting female federation of France had perfectly the right to prohibit it"...

The actress Charlotte Andler in 1929. Jacket, trousers, shirt, bow tie, gloves. Male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom.
The actress Charlotte Andler in 1929.
Jacket, trousers, shirt, bow tie, gloves.
Male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom.

dot  Nevertheless, these courageous women will triumph over the aesthetic divergences, morals and policies to enter manners and to thus open the way of the modern woman such as we know it today.
Gabrielle
Bibliography:
"Les Garçonnes. Modes et fantasmes des années folles".
Christine Bard, Paris, Flammarion, 1998.


Short cut and squared said precisely "to the garçonne" Louise Brooks.
Short cut and squared said precisely "to the garçonne"
Louise Brooks.


The site is a success thanks to you all. Thank you for your expressions of sympathy in the golden book and ideological support of members. Thank you also with those which write personal messages to me. They suit me right to the heart and push me to advance always further.
Gabrielle

"I AM PERFECT": Auto-portrait. Dress and Boots Gabrielle. Mitten and low sticking H&M. Gabrielle. July 2007.
"I AM PERFECT":
Auto-portrait. Dress and Boots Gabrielle. Mitten and low sticking H&M.
Gabrielle. July 2007.


NIGHT'S DOORS: "Do you know the doors of the evening Which are crying inside girls Legs apart Eyes which shine ?" [Les portes du soir - Indochine] Crepe blouse with sleeves. Matching skirt with chiffon layers. Gabrielle. February 5, 2011.
NIGHT'S DOORS:
"Do you know
the doors of the evening
Which are crying inside girls
Legs apart
Eyes which shine ?"
[Les portes du soir - Indochine]
Crepe blouse with sleeves. Matching skirt with chiffon layers.
Gabrielle. February 5, 2011.


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Last member
20/02/2012 - 17h35
Pauline
- L'hay les roses - France -
Mais le symbole plus emblématique de la mode à la garçonne est la coupe de cheveux. Incarnée au cinéma par l’actrice Louise Brook, la coupe courte devient célèbre et est porté par toutes les femmes. Symbole d'émancipation, la coupe courte séduit et s'impose. En 1925, une femme sur trois aurait fait couper ses cheveux. Mais déjà en 1903, Colette arborait la coiffure courte. En mai 1917 Paul Morand écrit : « depuis 3 jours, c’est la mode de porter les cheveux courts. Toutes, elle suivent le mouvement, mené par Mme Letellier et Channel…». Les cheveux sont donc coiffés suivant la mode masculine, sous un chapeau cloche, à haute caloque cylindrique et dont les bords étroits tombent juste au dessus des sourcils. Les frères Antoine et René Rambaud devienne maitre dans l’art de cette coiffure qui fut renommer la coupe à la garçonne.
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Last member
19/11/2014 - 01h10
Damien Deloche
- Valence - France -
Je suis un mec de 37 ans et pas mal décalé un peu androgyne. J'aime les personnes qui sortent du lot ! J’adore les jupes noires pour homme, les kilts comme j'ai vu en Ecosse ou fabriqués branchées par Jean Paul Gaultier. La mode gothique avec des rangers aux pieds et avoir de longs cheveux avec des vestes cloutées : ce temps est révolu. J’ai du rouge à lèvre noire et du vernis noir chez moi mais j'aimerai m'affirmer et porter des choses excentriques en ville. Mais en France on est coincé ou islamisé. Je ne suis pas à Paris mais dans une ville pourrie de 60 000 habitants dans le sud de la France. La mode du kilt ou de la jupe gothique va très bien dans les pays anglo-saxon comme en Ecosse ou à Londres. Alors parfois, pour me satisfaire mes envies je change d'identité et m'habille gothique dans mon salon. J'ai la panoplie mais le regard des autres en ville me fait peur et je n’accepterais pas les moqueries et les remarques ou pires les agressions. Voila je vous ai décrit ma passion.
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Last msg of golden book :
Florian - Paris - France - - added 25/07/2014.
Bonjour.

Je suis un amateur du port de la jupe et robe chez l'homme, et il m'arrive d'en porter, comme tout autre vêtement dit féminin, du haut au bas. J'ai 32 ans et j'aimerai m'assumer ainsi depuis l'âge de 16 ans.

Pour moi, on ne définit pas notre sexe de par ce qu'on porte. Du tissu aux couleurs quelqu'elles soient, variés ou non, ne veut pas dire qu'on est forcément une femme. Il faut oublier en partie au moins ce que la mode nous apprend, voire nous oblige à porter. Si un homme souhaite s'habiller en femme, puisqu'on ne pourrait le dire autrement, alors soit, et cela ne signifie pas qu'il est gay ou bi. Je suis hétéro malgré que j'apprécie les vêtements féminins. J'aime porter toutes sortes de jupes, robes, collants et chaussures en premier lieu réservés aux femmes.

M'inscrire m'est un peu difficile encore, mais j'y songe sérieusement. Merci de me lire


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