New York city:
Since the skirt for man is worn in the biggest Western metropolises, it is in New York city that the first dresses make their appearance. In front of the building of the fifth avenue, Flo, the leading fashion model wears a dress in fabric on one white sticking. Gray ankle boots in imitation leather were selected for this escapade on the roofs. Flo carries a long raincoat.
Gabrielle Lys. April 2006.
And just as the arms in our hands
than you think
That's me and you we'll go...
I know I shall never return ... never
[Ceremonia - Indochine]
Gabrielle Loodt. May 23, 2010.
LAPSE MEMORY COLORS:
"Since shade wins.
Since it is not mountain.
Higher than the steps of memory lapse.
Since it is necessary to learn.
Failing to understand it."
[Puisque tu pars - Jean-Jacques Goldman]
Climb steps of memory lapse. Skirt in satin veil to the colors of memory lapse on a black blouse. Gabrielle Lys. July 10, 2008.
PURE STYLE :
Marilyn coat with black gloves.
Gabrielle Lys. April 27 2011.
The garçonnes or the first women in trousers.
Less than one hundred years before the movement of the men out of Skirts, there were the women in trousers.... This article pays homage to these women pionnières who had courage to face the homophobie, with the mockeries, with the disapproval of the society during the decade 1920-1930 while carrying the trousers. By adopting the dress of the men, they were the precursors of the movement of emancipation and liberalization of the women.
Poses calculated or urgent seized by the photographer ?
"the garçonne with the car".
Symbol of the Mad years, the garçonne, with her cut hair, her shortened dresses, her tubular look is a figure of androgyne mode which hesitates between masculine and invention of a new femininity. She incarne, in ambiguous manner, the emancipation of the women. The adversaries with this emancipation did not fail to compare the garçonnes to the lesbians, thus using the homophobie against the women. Thus, since 1889, we estimate that we almost always can suspect a homosexuality among women who carry the short hair or which gets dressed like men or who practise the sports of the men. The sign of the sex by clothing is indeed at that time a fundamental cultural feature. It assigns each sex in its place in all the manifestations of the social life. However, in this century marked by the male domination, to adopt the dress of the men is a gesture of stamping. Women face to the sarcastic remarks become models for the women witch like freedom: Rosa Happiness, George Sand, exploring Jane Dieulafoy or the writter Rachilde wear the male dress.
Short cut and squared said precisely "to the garçonne"
In 1920, the short cut and squared said precisely "to the garçonne" holds the top of the paving stone while the movie inaugurates the legendary career of star like Louise Brooks. The opponents of the emancipation of the women make run the rumour that the short cuts cause baldnesses, or, on the contrary, activate the pilosity of the face... But a new femininity is invented : The released neck and the nape of the neck emphasize outer earrings. On the stripped arms scintillate of many rigid bracelets, tightened "with the slave" while the movement of the body is underlined by many jewels imagination and pins...
New femininity: the released nape of the neck emphasizes large collars.
The arrival of the trousers
The appearance of the trousers In 1924, the Skirts are "short": on average to 26 cm of the ground. In 1925, they are to 30 or 35 cm of the ground. In 1926, they are to 40 cm then lengthen gradually until 1930 when they will be stabilized to 30 or 32 cm of the ground. But with the garçonne, male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom. It is not a question of vestimentary eccentricity but falls under a progress of feminism. The equality of the sexes seems initially like a negation of femininity and a will to imitate the men. The trousers, symbol of virility appears at the end of the Twenties in female wardrobe even they are already used since 1920 for horsemanship, hunting or golf. They also exist in the form of silk pyjamas to replace the housecoat since 1924. With the variation of the changes, the countryside will remain a long time faithful to its vestimentary traditions and its regional costumes. Thus, a long time, some priests will refuse the communion with the girls in trousers. The public school will hardly be shown more tolerant by prohibiting the trousers until the end of the Sixties, except during the winter rigours, provided that it is carried under the Skirt. In 1930, the women's right to get dressed as a man is even discussed in front of the courts. Thus, Violette Morris, catch of the sporting female Federation of France carries felt sorry for because its federation withdrew her licence because of her behaviour considered to be too male. To 37 years, she increases very short cut hair, the trousers and jacket with tie. she will be even marked by the rumour to have to remove her too prominent chest to drive its car... The court will declare that "to carry trousers not allowed for women, the sporting female federation of France had perfectly the right to prohibit it"...
The actress Charlotte Andler in 1929.
Jacket, trousers, shirt, bow tie, gloves.
Male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom.
Nevertheless, these courageous women will triumph over the aesthetic divergences, morals and policies to enter manners and to thus open the way of the modern woman such as we know it today.
"Les Garçonnes. Modes et fantasmes des années folles".
Christine Bard, Paris, Flammarion, 1998.
Short cut and squared said precisely "to the garçonne"
The site is a success thanks to you all. Thank you for your expressions of sympathy in the golden
and ideological support of members. Thank you also with those which write personal messages to me. They suit me right to the heart and push me to advance always further.
Year 2013. The Shaman wears a dress representing his female-spiritual. He carries the red feather, symbol of his authority in the community.
Gabrielle Lys October 2007.
First permanent station on Mars in 2030.
Prescribed uniform during operating hours:
black suit for women and red dress for men.
Gabrielle Lys. July 21, 2014.
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20/02/2012 - 17h35
- L'hay les roses
- France -
Mais le symbole plus emblématique de la mode à la garçonne est la coupe de cheveux. Incarnée au cinéma par l’actrice Louise Brook, la coupe courte devient célèbre et est porté par toutes les femmes. Symbole d'émancipation, la coupe courte séduit et s'impose. En 1925, une femme sur trois aurait fait couper ses cheveux. Mais déjà en 1903, Colette arborait la coiffure courte. En mai 1917 Paul Morand écrit : « depuis 3 jours, c’est la mode de porter les cheveux courts. Toutes, elle suivent le mouvement, mené par Mme Letellier et Channel…». Les cheveux sont donc coiffés suivant la mode masculine, sous un chapeau cloche, à haute caloque cylindrique et dont les bords étroits tombent juste au dessus des sourcils. Les frères Antoine et René Rambaud devienne maitre dans l’art de cette coiffure qui fut renommer la coupe à la garçonne.
16/12/2016 - 00h15
- Belgique -
Je suis un homme qui depuis enfant a toujours aimé mettre des jupes, robes. Aujourd'hui, mon quotidien est jupes collants talons. je ne me considère pas travesti. Pour l'état civil, je ne suis ni M , ni F mais X
Last msg of GuestBook :
- France -
- added 08/02/2016.
Bravo pour ce magnifique site
Dommage que les articles sur la jupe se fassent rares.
Je me suis mis à porter la jupe de temps en temps depuis un an. Au début difficile de s'aventurer en ville tant la crainte des regards est grande. Mais en fait, cela passe assez bien. Cependant, j'ai l'impression d'être bien seul et j'aimerais bien que d'autres osent et que ce vêtement puisse ainsi être porté plus facilement.
Je précise que je suis un jeune senior et c'est par plaisir que je porte la jupe. Liberté de mouvement, originalité, confort.
Espérant que tout cela évolue vite...
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