"You, You show me
That my time is serious.
I'll never leave you.
I remain alive and I succeeded
grow and smile.
It's still wrong like a bad dog."
[Adora - Indochine]
Gabrielle Lys. April 25, 2010.
Like a body in sleep
Transparency of desire
Nonchalance to be it
Gabrielle Lys. November 2006.
Dress and hair with the fashion colors of this summer. Satin dress with underskirt of muslin in several thicknesses.
Gabrielle Lys. May 6, 2008.
"If I must fall from top
That my fall is slow
I found the rest
Only in the indifference
I would like to find innocence
But nothing has direction,
and nothing goes"
[Disillusioned - Mylène farmer]
On the border of this bipolar world, he wears a t-shirt with large cut off and a "gipsy" skirt with broad folds to the front one.
Gabrielle Lys. February 27, 2008.
The garçonnes or the first women in trousers.
Less than one hundred years before the movement of the men out of Skirts, there were the women in trousers.... This article pays homage to these women pionnières who had courage to face the homophobie, with the mockeries, with the disapproval of the society during the decade 1920-1930 while carrying the trousers. By adopting the dress of the men, they were the precursors of the movement of emancipation and liberalization of the women.
Poses calculated or urgent seized by the photographer ?
"the garçonne with the car".
Symbol of the Mad years, the garçonne, with her cut hair, her shortened dresses, her tubular look is a figure of androgyne mode which hesitates between masculine and invention of a new femininity. She incarne, in ambiguous manner, the emancipation of the women. The adversaries with this emancipation did not fail to compare the garçonnes to the lesbians, thus using the homophobie against the women. Thus, since 1889, we estimate that we almost always can suspect a homosexuality among women who carry the short hair or which gets dressed like men or who practise the sports of the men. The sign of the sex by clothing is indeed at that time a fundamental cultural feature. It assigns each sex in its place in all the manifestations of the social life. However, in this century marked by the male domination, to adopt the dress of the men is a gesture of stamping. Women face to the sarcastic remarks become models for the women witch like freedom: Rosa Happiness, George Sand, exploring Jane Dieulafoy or the writter Rachilde wear the male dress.
Short cut and squared said precisely "to the garçonne"
In 1920, the short cut and squared said precisely "to the garçonne" holds the top of the paving stone while the movie inaugurates the legendary career of star like Louise Brooks. The opponents of the emancipation of the women make run the rumour that the short cuts cause baldnesses, or, on the contrary, activate the pilosity of the face... But a new femininity is invented : The released neck and the nape of the neck emphasize outer earrings. On the stripped arms scintillate of many rigid bracelets, tightened "with the slave" while the movement of the body is underlined by many jewels imagination and pins...
New femininity: the released nape of the neck emphasizes large collars.
The arrival of the trousers
The appearance of the trousers In 1924, the Skirts are "short": on average to 26 cm of the ground. In 1925, they are to 30 or 35 cm of the ground. In 1926, they are to 40 cm then lengthen gradually until 1930 when they will be stabilized to 30 or 32 cm of the ground. But with the garçonne, male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom. It is not a question of vestimentary eccentricity but falls under a progress of feminism. The equality of the sexes seems initially like a negation of femininity and a will to imitate the men. The trousers, symbol of virility appears at the end of the Twenties in female wardrobe even they are already used since 1920 for horsemanship, hunting or golf. They also exist in the form of silk pyjamas to replace the housecoat since 1924. With the variation of the changes, the countryside will remain a long time faithful to its vestimentary traditions and its regional costumes. Thus, a long time, some priests will refuse the communion with the girls in trousers. The public school will hardly be shown more tolerant by prohibiting the trousers until the end of the Sixties, except during the winter rigours, provided that it is carried under the Skirt. In 1930, the women's right to get dressed as a man is even discussed in front of the courts. Thus, Violette Morris, catch of the sporting female Federation of France carries felt sorry for because its federation withdrew her licence because of her behaviour considered to be too male. To 37 years, she increases very short cut hair, the trousers and jacket with tie. she will be even marked by the rumour to have to remove her too prominent chest to drive its car... The court will declare that "to carry trousers not allowed for women, the sporting female federation of France had perfectly the right to prohibit it"...
The actress Charlotte Andler in 1929.
Jacket, trousers, shirt, bow tie, gloves.
Male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom.
Nevertheless, these courageous women will triumph over the aesthetic divergences, morals and policies to enter manners and to thus open the way of the modern woman such as we know it today.
"Les Garçonnes. Modes et fantasmes des années folles".
Christine Bard, Paris, Flammarion, 1998.
Short cut and squared said precisely "to the garçonne"
The site is a success thanks to you all. Thank you for your expressions of sympathy in the golden
and ideological support of members. Thank you also with those which write personal messages to me. They suit me right to the heart and push me to advance always further.
"Just believe in yourself.
Hear this voice from deep inside.
It's the call of your heart.
Close your eyes and you will find
The way out of the dark."
[Send me an angel - Scorpions]
Gabrielle Lys. Marsh 11, 2011.
MY SWEET PRINCE:
My sweet prince,
You are the one.
Me and my valuable friend,
Can fix all the pain away.
So before I end my day,
My sweet prince,You are the one.
[My sweet prince - Placebo]
Gabrielle Lys. August 5th, 2009.
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20/02/2012 - 17h35
- L'hay les roses
- France -
Mais le symbole plus emblématique de la mode à la garçonne est la coupe de cheveux. Incarnée au cinéma par l’actrice Louise Brook, la coupe courte devient célèbre et est porté par toutes les femmes. Symbole d'émancipation, la coupe courte séduit et s'impose. En 1925, une femme sur trois aurait fait couper ses cheveux. Mais déjà en 1903, Colette arborait la coiffure courte. En mai 1917 Paul Morand écrit : « depuis 3 jours, c’est la mode de porter les cheveux courts. Toutes, elle suivent le mouvement, mené par Mme Letellier et Channel…». Les cheveux sont donc coiffés suivant la mode masculine, sous un chapeau cloche, à haute caloque cylindrique et dont les bords étroits tombent juste au dessus des sourcils. Les frères Antoine et René Rambaud devienne maitre dans l’art de cette coiffure qui fut renommer la coupe à la garçonne.
07/01/2015 - 11h42
- France -
Homme passionné de mode et de vêtements féminins et qui les porte, je revendique le droit de nous habiller comme il nous plait, comme la société en reconnait le droit aux femmes.
Last msg of golden book :
- Belgique -
- added 13/10/2015.
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