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"It is your attitude, not aptitude, that determines your altitude."
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Psychology:
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Fashion Articles:
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THE SUN KING: Elegance of a belgian îcone of the grunge world... The Sun king reinvents the man with each one of his appearances. Boots and leather dress surmounted by a false collar Sun color gold. Gabrielle Lys. September 2007.
THE SUN KING:
Elegance of a belgian îcone of the grunge world... The "Sun king" reinvents the man with each one of his appearances. Boots and leather dress surmounted by a false collar "Sun" color gold.
Gabrielle Lys. September 2007.


THE KISS OF THE LIMBS: Each night, in his sleep, these silhouettes emerge from the bottom of the limbs. Her, him, a kiss... The skirt for man, a story of redemption... Gabrielle Lys. October 2007.
THE KISS OF THE LIMBS:
Each night, in his sleep, these silhouettes emerge from the bottom of the limbs. Her, him, a kiss... The skirt for man, a story of redemption...
Gabrielle Lys. October 2007.


Achille: Tee-shirt without handles and skirt out of red cotton with edges, knitted cap out of wool with feather, red wraps and riding boot. Gabrielle Lys February 2006.
Achille:
Tee-shirt without handles and skirt out of red cotton with edges, knitted cap out of wool with feather, red wraps and riding boot. Gabrielle Lys February 2006.


GROUND AND FIRE: Resolutely male, the long skirt 2008 in the GROUND colors with satin jacket in FIRE color. For the complete men with their Yin and Yang!!! Gabrielle Lys. Marsh 16, 2008.
GROUND AND FIRE:
Resolutely male, the long skirt 2008 in the GROUND colors with satin jacket in FIRE color. For the complete men with their Yin and Yang!!!
Gabrielle Lys. Marsh 16, 2008.



The garçonnes or the first women in trousers.

Introduction

dot  Less than one hundred years before the movement of the men out of Skirts, there were the women in trousers.... This article pays homage to these women pionnières who had courage to face the homophobie, with the mockeries, with the disapproval of the society during the decade 1920-1930 while carrying the trousers. By adopting the dress of the men, they were the precursors of the movement of emancipation and liberalization of the women.

Poses calculated or urgent seized by the photographer ? the garçonne with the car.
Poses calculated or urgent seized by the photographer ?
"the garçonne with the car".

La garçonne.
dot  Symbol of the Mad years, the garçonne, with her cut hair, her shortened dresses, her tubular look is a figure of androgyne mode which hesitates between masculine and invention of a new femininity. She incarne, in ambiguous manner, the emancipation of the women. The adversaries with this emancipation did not fail to compare the garçonnes to the lesbians, thus using the homophobie against the women. Thus, since 1889, we estimate that we almost always can suspect a homosexuality among women who carry the short hair or which gets dressed like men or who practise the sports of the men. The sign of the sex by clothing is indeed at that time a fundamental cultural feature. It assigns each sex in its place in all the manifestations of the social life. However, in this century marked by the male domination, to adopt the dress of the men is a gesture of stamping. Women face to the sarcastic remarks become models for the women witch like freedom: Rosa Happiness, George Sand, exploring Jane Dieulafoy or the writter Rachilde wear the male dress.

Short cut and squared said precisely to the garçonne Louise Brooks.
Short cut and squared said precisely "to the garçonne"
Louise Brooks.

dot  In 1920, the short cut and squared said precisely "to the garçonne" holds the top of the paving stone while the movie inaugurates the legendary career of star like Louise Brooks. The opponents of the emancipation of the women make run the rumour that the short cuts cause baldnesses, or, on the contrary, activate the pilosity of the face... But a new femininity is invented : The released neck and the nape of the neck emphasize outer earrings. On the stripped arms scintillate of many rigid bracelets, tightened "with the slave" while the movement of the body is underlined by many jewels imagination and pins...

New femininity:  the released nape of the neck emphasizes large collars. Louise Brooks
New femininity: the released nape of the neck emphasizes large collars.
Louise Brooks

The arrival of the trousers

dot  The appearance of the trousers In 1924, the Skirts are "short": on average to 26 cm of the ground. In 1925, they are to 30 or 35 cm of the ground. In 1926, they are to 40 cm then lengthen gradually until 1930 when they will be stabilized to 30 or 32 cm of the ground. But with the garçonne, male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom. It is not a question of vestimentary eccentricity but falls under a progress of feminism. The equality of the sexes seems initially like a negation of femininity and a will to imitate the men. The trousers, symbol of virility appears at the end of the Twenties in female wardrobe even they are already used since 1920 for horsemanship, hunting or golf. They also exist in the form of silk pyjamas to replace the housecoat since 1924. With the variation of the changes, the countryside will remain a long time faithful to its vestimentary traditions and its regional costumes. Thus, a long time, some priests will refuse the communion with the girls in trousers. The public school will hardly be shown more tolerant by prohibiting the trousers until the end of the Sixties, except during the winter rigours, provided that it is carried under the Skirt. In 1930, the women's right to get dressed as a man is even discussed in front of the courts. Thus, Violette Morris, catch of the sporting female Federation of France carries felt sorry for because its federation withdrew her licence because of her behaviour considered to be too male. To 37 years, she increases very short cut hair, the trousers and jacket with tie. she will be even marked by the rumour to have to remove her too prominent chest to drive its car... The court will declare that "to carry trousers not allowed for women, the sporting female federation of France had perfectly the right to prohibit it"...

The actress Charlotte Andler in 1929. Jacket, trousers, shirt, bow tie, gloves. Male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom.
The actress Charlotte Andler in 1929.
Jacket, trousers, shirt, bow tie, gloves.
Male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom.

dot  Nevertheless, these courageous women will triumph over the aesthetic divergences, morals and policies to enter manners and to thus open the way of the modern woman such as we know it today.
Gabrielle Lys
Bibliography:
"Les Garçonnes. Modes et fantasmes des années folles".
Christine Bard, Paris, Flammarion, 1998.


Short cut and squared said precisely to the garçonne Louise Brooks.
Short cut and squared said precisely "to the garçonne"
Louise Brooks.


The site is a success thanks to you all. Thank you for your expressions of sympathy in the golden book and ideological support of members. Thank you also with those which write personal messages to me. They suit me right to the heart and push me to advance always further.
Gabrielle Lys

Summer 2007: Man out of skirt with the colors of the summer. Gabrielle Lys. May 2007.
Summer 2007:
Man out of skirt with the colors of the summer.
Gabrielle Lys. May 2007.


Dawn: The day rises on the city. They met in a dancing of the city. She wears a nice silk black dress with naked back. He wears a wind-breaker, a scarf of red color and a skirt in thick fabric. Gabrielle Lys April 2006.
Dawn:
The day rises on the city. They met in a dancing of the city. She wears a nice silk black dress with naked back. He wears a wind-breaker, a scarf of red color and a skirt in thick fabric. Gabrielle Lys April 2006.


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Last member
20/02/2012 - 17h35
Pauline
- L'hay les roses - France -
Mais le symbole plus emblématique de la mode à la garçonne est la coupe de cheveux. Incarnée au cinéma par l’actrice Louise Brook, la coupe courte devient célèbre et est porté par toutes les femmes. Symbole d'émancipation, la coupe courte séduit et s'impose. En 1925, une femme sur trois aurait fait couper ses cheveux. Mais déjà en 1903, Colette arborait la coiffure courte. En mai 1917 Paul Morand écrit : « depuis 3 jours, c’est la mode de porter les cheveux courts. Toutes, elle suivent le mouvement, mené par Mme Letellier et Channel…». Les cheveux sont donc coiffés suivant la mode masculine, sous un chapeau cloche, à haute caloque cylindrique et dont les bords étroits tombent juste au dessus des sourcils. Les frères Antoine et René Rambaud devienne maitre dans l’art de cette coiffure qui fut renommer la coupe à la garçonne.
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Last member
31/01/2016 - 00h40
Paul Zucker
- Phoenix - Arizona - Arizona
I see no reason whatsoever why men can't wear skirts. They wear kilts in Scotland and Ireland. Women never used to wear pants some time ago. Now you see more women wearing pants than skirts! Why can't we men wear skirts or dresses in public in the USA? Many wear them privately. It is time to at least have a discussion on the narrow clothing available to the male sex in public. Thank you.
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Last msg of golden book :
Roland Jimenez - Bogota - Colombia - - added 22/02/2016.
Muchas felicitaciones por promover el uso de las faldas y los vestidos con falda para los hombres; son prendas muy saludables, comodisimas; y lo que hay que hacer es usarlas, y disfrutarlas.
El pantalón fue utilizado para discriminar, y humillar a la mujer; (es la prenda mas exhibicionista y sexista que se haya utilizado; y en especial para el varon, pues la anatomía de la mujer es diferente, y un pantalón en la mujer no es tan insiniante, ni tan exhibicionista como en el hombre. Lo mas decente, cómodo, y saludable para vestirse un varon es una falda o un vestido con falda. Por tradición los hombres desde siempre se habían vestido con faldas, solo hace 300 años que los obligaron a usar pantalón. El pantalón es la prenda menos adecuada para un hombre; la costura central del pantalón maltrata, magulla e incomoda todo el tiempo los genitales; la correa o cinturón hace las veces de torniquete, y obliga al corazón a bombear la sangre con mayor esfuerzo, (para vencer la contracción que hace el torniquete), y por mala irrigacion sanguínea afecta: el aparato digestivo, el sistema urinario, el aparato reproductor. Ademas con el uso del pantalón el hombre ha terminado orinando de pie lo cual es totalmente antinatural. Las Faldas y los vestidos con faldas para los hombres son confortables. El pantalón, el calzoncillo ajustado, la costura central del pantalón, y la correa o cinturón, están promoviendo las enfermedades modernas de los hombres: impotencia, esterilidad.


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